Reading creases like a fitter
Before you ever size up or down, zoom in on the creases. Diagonal lines running from the armpit toward the chest usually mean the shoulder is too narrow or the armhole is cut too high, which will feel tight the moment you reach forward. Horizontal folds across the hips signal that the seat is straining—pockets may flare, and the fabric will fight you when you sit.
If sleeves spiral instead of hanging straight, the sleeve pitch is off. It might photograph fine, but in motion the fabric will twist and bunch around your forearm. Once you see these tells, you can predict comfort before you ever touch the fabric, which is gold when you’re shopping online and return windows are tight.
Shadows that reveal structure
Shadows tell you how much structure is hiding inside the garment. On tailored pieces, sharp, clean shadows around the lapels or front edges usually mean there’s a canvas or interfacing holding the shape. Those pieces will keep a crisp V down the chest, even after a long day.
Soft, wide shadows at the hem or along side seams often point to unstructured knits or very drapey wovens that will relax—and sometimes sag—with wear. Under waistbands, a clear, strong shadow suggests thicker interfacing, which is exactly what you want if you plan on tucking in heavier shirts without creating a balloon effect. If the shadow disappears near the button but returns at the back, the front may collapse over time while the back stays rigid—an early sign to size up or pick a different make.
Fabric clues hidden in the image
Your eye already knows more about fabric than you think. If pocket bags are visible through a pair of jeans or trousers, that’s a sign of a low-density weave. Expect more stretch over time and faster fading at stress points. Glossy, almost plastic-looking highlights on denim often come from heavy resin finishes—they’ll feel stiff out of the box but keep their shape for years.
Flat, inky blacks that look completely matte are often enzyme-washed knits. They’re incredibly soft and cozy but can pill if you wash them hot or tumble them for too long. Reading these details upfront lets you choose pieces that age the way you prefer, instead of being surprised six months in. Use this to filter options: if you want sharp lines, avoid loose weaves; if you want comfort out of the box, embrace lighter density but plan for more maintenance.